44. Cycle journey and family paddle
Not a paddling trip: Kamloops to Victoria cycle/camping trip. June, 2025
Date: Sat, Jun 14, 2025, at 8:45 AM
I loved the way the train seemed to hang over the Fraser River, and later the Thompson. Way better views than from the highway. Terrific Steward. She is from Tunisia and stores her sailboat with partner beside the Coast Guard at the entrance to False Creek, Vancouver. French passport. Good lookin, too. Slow train, though. Arrived 3 hours late. Set off on my bike after 3 am. Maps sent me first on a route that ended in a dead end and then redirected me way over to a bridge over the Thompson River that was closed, barricaded, had burned down the year before. Had to retrace. It was a beautiful moon lit ride. Started in the dark, ended in the light. Arrived at hotel at 5. Locked. Nobody answered. Rang buzzer many times. Nothing. So, I set out my mattress and laid down across their entrance, leaving just enough space for people to exit. Sketchy area. When someone came out, I went in, with my bike, and slept beside the reservation desk. Manager came in around 7. A bit startled. They had cancelled my res. when I didn’t show up. I had specifically arranged for them to hold the res. Only have to pay for one night. Had a fine visit with Gary and his family, who were very generous. I had planned to this trip the year before, but left it too late, and there was smoke over most of the province. Our new normal. This time I started in June, before the main fire season.
The friendly guy at Logan Lake Campsite worked at Highland Valley Mines his whole career. I thought he’d know if Witches Brook Road was OK. He said yes, paved even. Not! Some of the ruts were so deep if I slid into one, my pedals would hit the sides and I’d have to jump off. Leaving early to avoid traffic didn’t work this time. Steady stream of traffic up to the mine, steep hills, pickups doing 110.
Huge Highland Valley Coppermine tailings pond.
Hey: we drive an electric car. Got to have copper and moly. Largest open pit mine in Canada, one of the largest in the world. Humungous. Teck Resources to extend life of mine by almost two decades with an investment of up to $2.4 billion.
Hills up to the mine, then 16 kilometers of very steep declines down to Ashcroft. Going 70 km on a loaded bike: too much. Hit the brakes. Hot and tired going uphill to Cache Creek. Nap, now tea. This campsite serves fish and chips out of a truck. Supposed to be very good. Not much in Cache Creek. Swimming? Just a sketchy small pool.
No thanks. Friendly campers. Tomorrow: short ride to Marble Canyon. Easy day.
Marble Canyon Provincial Park. Good swimming for a hot cyclist.
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A mother duck and 8 little ones. The young-uns came close, fearless, putting pine cones, rocks, plants, in their mouths. I guess mom doesn’t have to show them. They nibble on everything and find out what’s tasty. Today I went from dry, sage brush country and passed into areas with alders, small pines, then Ponderosa Pines and yes, even my favorite: Doug firs. And wild roses and birch. In this place its “snowing” cottonwood.
I kept meeting interesting people in the campsites. Next campsite over, in an old red pickup, Ken, ex prospector like me, smuggles teak from Myanmar into China and imports here. Has built log homes, bridges for logging. 3 wives, exes. Shared his vodka. Great guy. Thinks cycling is for idiots. But I like going slow.
One older couple is travelling and sleeping in a small panel van. She recently lost her husband. They say they are having a lot of fun. Shocking!
Lillooet Suspension Bridge.
This cable suspension bridge, now called the “Old Bridge”, was constructed in 1913 as a one lane passage for cars. It was replaced in 1981 by the “Bridge of the twenty-three Camels”. Just an ordinary steel and concrete structure. The name refers to the camels that were brought here in 1862 to haul freight. Didn’t work out. This old treasure was rejuvenated in 2003 for pedestrians and bicycles, but I’ve noticed motorcyclists use it too. On the ride down there is a plaque stating that during the 1850s goldrush, Lillooet was the largest town west of Chicago and north of San Francisco.
Fraser River at Lillooet
My favorite spots are Cayoosh Creek on the Lillooet side of the river and this view on the other side. You can see the bridge in the photo. Its old structure blends perfectly with the subdued colours and rough texture of the riverbanks.
I’m drawn to this river. Just like when standing on a high cliff I want to dive in. This time to join the flow. But I’ve got too much life left in this realm for that. I’ve paddled the lower Fraser and across the delta, but this is the first time I’ve felt that urge. Place or time?
Compared to our short lives this river has been the lifeblood of the land for eternity. Millions of years. Timeless! I know, I know: our assault on our home is continuing unabated. The planet is heating up. Within a few decades all the glaciers feeding this mighty River will be gone. Already, its water is getting too warm for salmon. Its pulse will become more erratic. There will be increasing drought and flood levels. But the river will keep flowing long after we’re gone. I find that reassuring.
The mighty muddy Fraser.
I left Lillooet under a smoke forecast. No way was I going to stress my old lungs with smoke. I stood for about an hour on the highway at the junction beside Cayoosh Creek with my bike and gear and my opposable thumb out before Daryl pulled his pickup over beside me. Called me “young man” before he really saw me. I liked that. About 40. He said he knows the hills and turns on the narrow Duffey Lake Road and didn’t think cycling was a good idea. Indigenous, friendly, said I’d have to put up with him smoking, but he didn’t light up the whole drive. He was a little late for his softball game near Pemberton and drove very fast. He works for road maintenance. Has a new girlfriend and a bunch of kids. His uncle is just 2 years older than he is. He had a huge alcohol problem but quit when he realized he wanted to be an involved father. Called me “young man” again when he dropped me off a few kilometers before Pemberton and I called him “old guy”.
After Pemberton I made my way first to Whistler and then to Brackendale where I stayed with Martin and his family. Martin is a kayak guide, goldsmith and founder of the “Salmon Embassy”. We always have lots to talk about. Then, on to Vancouver and family, ferry to Swartz Bay, and on to Victoria.
Family Paddle, August, 2025
Eagles, Turkey Vultures. Southern Gulf Islands
Pender Island.
Phew, alone again. Everyone left last night: Dan, Katherine, Ames, Izzy, Liam left around 6, after 3 swims in the lake, Evan and Lei went after dinner at the pub.
The plans for a paddle/camping trip with the Elliotts had been changing daily. Where, how far, how long, when, and who’s going. Eventually Amelia and I shared a K-2, Dan paddled with Izzy, 7, and Liam, 2, in the Klondike, while mom Katherine, paddled my Wisper. Last year Amelia could only paddle five or ten minutes. Over the winter she took up swimming multiple times a week. This year, at 10, she is a force. Wonderful to feel her power. Later, Amelia and her mom and Izzy made a strong trio in the Klondike, Dan had Liam in the K-2, and I headed off on my own in the single. We reconnected here later.
Amelia, Liam, Katherine
Izzy photo: Dan Elliott
Amelia and Izzy found great pleasure peering into tidal pools and making homes for hermit crabs. Mostly barefoot. Tough feet. Liam padded off to whatever places he could get away to. Nights were sometimes loud with Liam demanding attention. Other campers: beware toddlers! But it worked. Sometimes hilarious, sometimes demanding, with mom eventually becoming exhausted. Wonderful trip.
Exhausted campers Photo: Dan Elliott
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The first major climate tipping point has been passed: the world’s coral reefs have been pushed “beyond what they can cope with” according to Mike Barrett, chief scientific advisor at the World Wildlife Fund UK and co-author of the report. 80% of the world’s reefs have endured mass bleaching since 2023 due to high ocean temperatures. Hurricane Melissa was the fourth powerful North Atlantic hurricane during 2025. It had doubled in intensity in just one day due to the highest water temperatures recorded. And then devastated Jamaica. Here, off the B.C. coast, the “Blob” has returned. First detected in 2013 and lasting until 2016, it’s warmer temperatures and agal bloom caused the deaths of sea lions, dolphins, sea stars, turtles, seabirds, and countless shellfish.
These kids will live on a diminished planet. There is plenty of technical progress in solar and wind power, electrification of cars and infrastructure. Nonetheless, a warning: we are moving backwards. Emissions are still rising globally. The government of our neighbours to the south is eliminating environmental projects and safeguards and promoting fossils. Here in my own province the premier is using U.S. tariffs to help justify massive investments in foreign owned LNG exports. (He’d be doing it anyway). We can be smarter than that. Can’t we?
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I am still making and shipping parts, although my shipping stateside has decreased. (A tiny hobby, really. Keeps some boats afloat and my hands busy. Doesn't feed me). Tariffs on our aluminum parts are 35%, plus fees. Totalling just over 41%. We have to charge this to our American customers.
When a country abuses allies and embraces tyrants it may become isolated and diminished. Probably.
The U.S. was once a trading country: of goods, services and ideas. A beacon of democracy that became very wealthy. Good luck with this.
We live in a place of astonishing beauty. I feel so lucky to share this with my wife, friends, and family.
Off to the Posties